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Burmese & Indian / Sri Lankan Star Tortoises
Other Stars Angulate Tortoise Misc. Pages
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Indoor Lighting & Heating for Stars & other dry area species
Simple tortoise table with a mercury vapor bulb (MVB) for basking heat with UVB and a long UVB fluorescent tube for additional UV and overall lighting. The MVB is used with a full size deep dome fixture and a reptile lamp stand. The UVB tube is fitted into a strip light fixture. Indoor housing First, read the Indian / Sri Lankan and Burmese Star tortoise indoor housing page. Additional indoor housing info can be found on the substrates, hideboxes, substrates & allergics (more on substrates), and housing & allergics (enclosure materials, air quality etc.) pages. Safety Always install heating and lighting devices securely and according to the manufacturer's directions. Improperly and unsafely installed tortoise enclosure fixtures have caused many house fires. Keep hot bulbs away from any flammable materials (e.g. enclosure covers or nearby curtains). It's best to buy UL listed and pre wired reptile lighting and heating products. Any do-it-yourself electrical wiring can be a fire hazard. Unless, you are an electrician and know what you are doing. :O) For news stories of house fires started by tortoise heating and lighting equipment, see the "Indoor fire safety" section under "Housing" on the links page. UVB lighting Indoors, you can provide UVB with fluorescent bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs (MVB). MVB's provide both UVB and heat, but with fluorescent bulbs you'll need a separate heat-producing basking bulb. I have used both linear (long) UVB bulbs with separate heat bulbs and mercury vapor bulbs (MVB's). I now use MVB's as my main UVB source indoors and linear fluorescent UVB bulbs as additional fixtures to brighten up the rest of the enclosure. UVB - Linear fluorescent bulbs Zoo Med Reptisun brand linear (long) UVB bulbs are popular, but there are other brands. Reptisun bulbs are available as 2.0 UVB, 5.0 UVB, and 10.0 UVB The required bulb length depends on the fixture model you are using. Shop light or strip light UVB - Compact fluorescent bulbs There have been reports in the last few years of some compact (short) fluorescent bulbs causing eye problems in reptiles due to very intense UV radiation at short distances. These bulbs have now been replaced with new, improved designs. Avoid buying any old, defective stock. Read the 2007 special report [offsite] by UV Guide UK. Compact bulbs - burn in period Compact fluorescent bulbs typically have an initial "burn in" period when the UVB output is higher than normal. For example, with Zoo Med bulbs the period of high light and UVB output lasts about 150 hours. During this time, place the bulb higher than usual or preburn it away from the tortoise enclosure. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the minimum distance. Compact bulbs - placement Compact fluorescent bulbs must be installed DIRECTLY OVERHEAD of the tortoise, not at an angle clipped to the side of the enclosure. Tortoises or humans should never stare at the bulb. Compact fluorescent bulbs work well with deep dome light fixtures (scroll down for info) because they are deep enough to cover the whole bulb. This way, the light won't be shining to anyone's eyes. UVB - Mercury vapor bulbs (MVB's) There are several brands of MVB's on the market. I mainly used T-Rex's "Active UV Heat" and "Mega-Ray" MVB's in the past, but more recently I've switched to Zoo Med's "PowerSun" T-Rex also makes a MVB called "UV Heat". This newer bulb is cheaper than the "Active UV Heat" bulb and puts out less UVB. Thus, it's more suitable for forest or shade loving reptiles. There have been manufacturing problems with several MVB's recently, including "Active UV Heat" and "Mega-Ray" bulbs. According to UV Guide UK web site, some, but not all, MVB's from batches JI, KI and LI are affected. These bulbs were produced after October 2009. The defective bulbs emit abnormally short-wavelength UVB radiation and increase the risk of photo-kerato-conjunctivitis (eye problem). For the latest info on MVB's, see the UV Guide UK web site. Their UV bulb pages are under revision, but the updated info should be posted by late 2010 or early 2011. MVB dimensions Caution! Not all mercury vapor bulbs (MVB's) are the same physical size. In other words, MVB's of the same wattage from different manufactures can vary in depth and width. For example, the Mega-Ray bulb is longer and wider than the Zoo Med Powersun bulb. This photo shows a comparison between a 100W Powersun MVB on the left and a 100W Mega-Ray MVB on the right. A Mini Deep Dome (or Mini Sun Dome) fixture is on the left and a regular size Deep Dome (or Sun Dome) on the right. Note: Over time, manufacturers alter their MVB designs, so the dimensions of these bulbs may change. Fixtures for MVB's MVB's are wider and deeper than regular bulbs, so they require larger light fittings. Because MVB's stick out when placed in traditional reptile bulb holders, I like to use the larger Zoo Med Deep Dome Deep dome style bulb holders are long enough to totally cover MVB's. They also have a hanging loop which makes it easy to install them. No slippery clamps. They work well with reptile lamp stands. Scroll down to "lamp safety" for stand pics and info. Wire deflectors (open wire lamp fixtures) can be used with MVB's as well, especially with the higher wattage ones, to help prevent bulb overheating. Because I don't like the bright light shining into my eyes, and I only use 100W MVB's, the deep dome fixtures work well for me. You can also use work lights, utility lights, or brooder lights to hold reptile bulbs, although some of them are too shallow for the MVB's. Utility lights can be equipped with fastening clamps, hanging hooks, or both. Utility lights usually have a high wattage rating. Note: MVB's should always be positioned vertically, in other words, straight down. Not at an angle. Deep Dome vs Mini Deep Dome This photo shows 100W Powersun MVB's fitted into a Mini Deep Dome (or Mini Sun Dome) and a regular size Deep Dome (or Sun Dome). The Powersun, which is a small size MVB, actually sticks out of the Mini Deep Dome (or Mini Sun Dome) a few millimeters although it's not evident in this photo. In the second photo, you can see how much a 100W Mega-Ray MVB sticks out of a Mini Deep Dome (or Mini Sun Dome) bulb holder. One should never stare at MVB's. The larger, regular size Deep Dome (or Sun Dome) fixture is the safest choice. The regular size Deep Dome (or Sun Dome) can accommodate any size MVB. MVB wattage MVB's have high wattage, typically 100-275W, and they get very hot. Thus, they may not be suitable for very small enclosures. Double check that your light fixture takes the high wattage of your MVB. For example, deep dome type fixtures are rated for 160W max and mini deep domes 100W max. MVB minimum distance Do follow the MVB installation instructions on the packaging. Do not position the MVB lower than the minimum distance recommended by the manufacturer. Typically, the minimum installation distances are:
Adjust the bulb position up or down, but above the minimum installation height, to achieve the ideal basking temperature. If the basking area is too hot, you can lift the bulb higher. If the area is too cool, you may need a second MVB or switch to a higher wattage MVB. Measure the minimum distance from the top of the tortoise, not from the ground. High wattage MVB's can get very hot and burn the tortoise if placed too low. MVB tips Avoid touching, bumping, and moving MVB's to prevent early burnout. If a MVB goes off, just wait. This bulb will turn off if it overheats and will later turn back on by itself, if it's not burned out. Also, if turned off on purpose, the MVB will not relight for at least one minute. It's recommended to wait 5-10 minutes before turning the MVB back on. Day and night Keep lights on 12-14 hrs a day during the summer and 10-12 hrs during the winter. During the day, the enclosure should be warm and lighted, but UVB specific lights are only needed during tortoises' active periods. However, the UVB bulb is often providing the lighting for the enclosure, so there's no way to keep lights and the UVB bulb on independently. If you use a MVB for your daytime heating, lighting, and UVB needs, you'll have to keep the MVB on all day. If you use a regular reptile basking bulb for heat and a fluorescent tube for UVB, you can turn on the fluorescent tube first in the morning and an hour or two later the basking bulb. In the evening, just reverse the process. This will imitate increasing and decreasing temperature levels in wild. If you use both a MVB and a fluorescent tube, you can turn on the tube first and the MVB later in the morning. Reverse in the evening; MVB off first and then the tube. At night, the enclosure should be dark. Ceramic heat emitters (CHE's) are great for nighttime heating because they provide no visible light, only heat. Scroll down to CHE info. UVB in a nutshell Basically, you have three choices in commonly available reptile UVB bulbs: MVB's, linear fluorescents, and compact fluorescent bulbs. 1.) Mercury vapor bulbs (MVB's) In a large enclosure with two or more tortoises, it's better to have several lower wattage MVB's instead of one high wattage bulb. For example, you could use two 100W MVB's instead of one 250W. This provides a larger heated area that accommodates several tortoises and the basking temperature is not quite as intense (possibly less drying and dehydrating). Also, if one of the MVB's fails, you still have at least one working heat bulb until you replace the broken one.
2.) Linear (long) fluorescent bulbs These bulbs are great for providing overall lighting for the enclosure when a MVB is used for the basking spot.
3.) Compact (short) fluorescent bulbs Only buy the latest compact models. Some older compacts have caused eye problems in reptiles. Be aware of the initial high UVB burn in period and install the bulb directly overhead (not clipped to the side at an angle). See the "compact bulbs" sections above.
UVB deterioration & UV meters UVB bulbs should to be changed every 6-12 months because their UV output degrades over time. MVB's are more expensive than linear fluorescent UVB bulbs, but their output last longer. You can track the UV levels with a small, handheld device called a UV meter. With it, you can monitor the intensity and ageing of your UVB lamps, but you can only compare bulbs of the same type. Solarmeter 6.2 and Zoo Med UV Radiometer are two UV meters suitable to testing reptile UVB bulbs. UV meters are very sensitive and easy to use. Just hold down the button and search for the area with the highest reading. Check the UVB readings when the bulbs are new and then periodically, always at the same distance. The general recommendation is to change UVB bulbs when their output has decreased by 30%. The UVB reading is displayed in microwatts (µw) per square centimeter. For examples of readings I took with my Solarmeter 6.2, go to the UVB readings page. This device is not cheap, but it can save money in the long run, especially if you have many indoor enclosures, because you won't need to change UVB bulbs prematurely. Plus, you know how much UVB your tortoise is actually getting. If you don't have a UV meter, the rule of thumb is to change fluorescent UVB tubes every 6 months and MVB's every 12 months (e.g. in the fall when your tortoises come in for the winter). Note: The newer thinking is that Solarmeter 6.5 UV index meter is actually more useful for measuring reptile UVB lights than the traditionally used Solarmeter 6.2. Solarmeter 6.2 reads the whole UV spectrum, while Solarmeter 6.5 is sensitive to the specific part of the UVB spectrum which creates vitamin D3. UVB and glass Normal window glass does not transmit UVB. Sunlight through a closed window does not meet tortoises' need for UVB. Even a mesh screen will filter out some UVB. The smaller the mesh openings, the less UVB goes through. You can buy special types of glass or acrylic that allow the transmission of UV radiation, but they are more expensive than regular glass. Heating - Daytime basking bulbs If you are using a fluorescent bulb for UVB, you'll need a separate min 50-75W reptile basking bulb for heat. Regular household bulbs provide heat as well. Always adjust the number and wattage of heat bulbs to fit the size of your enclosure by measuring the warm and cool end temps. Even with a MVB, which provides UVB and heat, you may still need a second heat source to keep the enclosure warm enough. Well-secured light fixtures with ceramic sockets are perfect holders for standard-sized reptile basking bulbs or regular household light bulbs. Check the wattage rating on the fixture to be sure it takes the wattage of your heat bulb. For example, the 5.5" clamp fixture is only rated for a 75W bulb. Heating - Ceramic heat emitters (CHE's) Ceramic infrared heat emitters Caution: Ceramic heat emitters can get very hot. Be careful! The safest way to install them is to use open-design wire reflectors, not regular reptile light fixtures. For example, Zoo Med's ceramic base wire cage clamp lamp Heating - Infrared heat bulbs
Infrared heat bulbs Note: The so called reptile "red bulbs" and "black bulbs" are not infrared lights. They are incandescent spot bulbs. They look like regular light bulbs, but they are made with red or black glass. Thus, provide very little visible light. Lamp safety In the past, I've used some clamp lamps, but in more recent years I've switched to lamp stands only. Zoo Med reptile lamp stands Some plastic containers have an extremely slippery surface. This can cause a clamp light fixture to slide down to one side, or even fall off, and create a fire hazard. Using a lamp stand with a light fixture that has a metal loop hanger (not a clamp light) will prevent this, but you can also secure clamp lights with an extra clamp. Years ago, when I still used clamp lights, I secured them with welding ground clamps You can also buy a clamp lamp safety cover Further, UV and heat lamps can be installed securely by suspending them from sturdy ceiling hooks or wall brackets. Heating - Undertank heaters (UTH's) Some tortoise owners like to use undertank heaters (UTH) when additional night or day heat is required. However, many keepers recommend an overhead heat source, not an UTH. They feel that bottom heat is unnatural for tortoises, and may even harm them. Undertank heat mats may work best for tortoises that require warm, high humidity conditions. They can help warm up any damp, cold substrate. If you do utilize an UTH, do so with some cautions. For safety, it's always best to use any heat mat with a thermostat or rheostat. Most UTH's should be placed on the outside of the enclosure, not inside the tank. Follow the UTH package instructions for installation and do glue the small rubber feet under the glass tank to create some air space underneath to help prevent overheating. If the heat pad doesn't come with those, just put something else (e.g. bottle caps or chair leg felt pads) under the enclosure to elevate it a bit. Many UTH's can only be used on glass tanks. High heat mats should not be used on acrylic tanks (may crack), plastic tubs, or wooden boxes due to fire concerns. For example, the Zoo Med undertank heat mats A few UTH's are considered safe on plastic and wood enclosures (e.g. Intellitemp, Ultratherm). Do check the product labels for suitability. The big plus of undertank heat mats is their low wattage. For example, an Ultratherm 11"x11" heat pad consumes only 15 watts. Ultratherm heat pads Due to their low wattage density, Ultratherm heat pads can be used on plastic tubs. They are self-regulated and top at about 95 °F. You can place the pad beneath the tub or tape it to the inside wall (pic) with flame retardant duct tape or aluminum foil tape. If taped to the tub's inside wall, fumes from the tape could be a concern in a closed space. If the heat pad is placed under the tub, it's best to place the tub on a hard, fire-safe surface. The European manufacturer recommends placing the heat pad between a styrofoam sheet and the tank bottom. Be aware, this will increase the temperature level on the tub floor (possibly up to 110-120 °F). Never heat more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the floor space. There must always be unheated floor areas available for the tortoise to cool off. Heating - Emergency In snow country, it's always good to have an emergency power generator available. Otherwise, disposable heating packs are a great resource to keep at hand for power outages. They are also useful for transporting tortoises in cold weather or keeping incubating eggs warm during a power outage. These heat packs typically last from 2 to 70+ hours depending on the rating. The less time they give out heat, the cheaper they are. Heat packs are mostly sold as hand, body, and foot warmers for short time use. They are available under several brand names, including UniHeat, Grabber, Heatmax's HotHands, and Little Hotties. Among reptile keepers, the UniHeat Shipping Warmers are probably the most popular. As the name applies, these packs are designed to keep reptiles warm during shipping. They put out heat for 20-72 hours depending on the model. UniHeat packs are non-toxic and non-flammable. Still, I would wrap the packs in a light towel or other cloth to prevent tortoises from ripping them open. I keep a bunch of UniHeat warmers (pic) at home, just in case. You can buy Uniheat packs on amazon Note: If the power goes out even for a second, the MVB bulbs will turn themselves off. In that case, I turn them off and wait 5-10 minutes before turning them back on. Usually, they work fine. Temperature Indian / Sri Lankan and Burmese Star tortoises like warmth. The daytime temperature in the indoor enclosure should be about 90-95+ °F in the basking area under the heat bulb, and about 75-80 °F in the cooler half during the day. This way, you'll have a temperature gradient from 75 °F to 95+ °F inside the pen, and your tortoise can select the temperature zone he likes. For adults and sub adults, nighttime temperature can drop down to 70 °F or so, but preferably keep babies warmer at 75-80 °F. At night, the enclosure should be dark. Ceramic heat emitters are perfect for nighttime heating. They provide heat, but no light. See info above under "Heating - Ceramic heat emitters (CHE's)." Through the warm summer, no additional night heat may be required if the indoor enclosure is fairly dry and the temperature stays above 70 °F. On the other hand, if you keep the enclosure substrate very damp, it's a good idea to use a heater to raise the nighttime temperature (especially for babies and youngsters). The higher the humidity, the higher the temperature should be. Star tortoises are prone to respiratory problems if kept in too damp and cold conditions. Humidity Many Star tortoise keepers maintain a moderate humidity level of 40-60% in their indoor enclosures. Still, some say humidity for Stars should be less than 40%, and some say it should be as high as 75-90%. In general, ambient humidity level of 50-75% is fine for Star tortoises. For adults, strive for 40-60% and for hatchlings up to 70-80%, if the temperature is warm enough (cool end above 80 °F). Baby Stars can dehydrate quickly. A higher humidity is beneficial for them. Provide babies both dry hides and warm, humid hides to give them a choice of hiding places. The higher the humidity, the warmer the enclosure should be. Do not allow Stars to be cold and wet. During the winter, air in homes can be very dry due to central heating. Heat lamps in the indoor tortoise enclosures dry the air ever further. It might be helpful to run a vaporizer, aka steam humidifier or warm mist humidifier, in the tortoise room to increase the ambient humidity. Warm mist humidifiers boil the water, killing most bacteria, and release steam and humidity. Warm mist humidifiers should not be placed inside the tortoise tub due to possible of scalding of tortoises. In hot and dry climates, in can be a challenge to keep the humidity up. You can try to compensate for the lower humidity by using humid hides, giving frequent baths, misting the tortoises, and always keeping a shallow drinking water bowl available. You could also cover part of the enclosure to keep more humidity in. Temperature controls Ideally, use a thermostat or a rheostat with ceramic heat emitters and heat mats to control the temperature. A rheostat is a dimmer switch that regulates the flow of electricity on a constant rate based on the user setting. Rheostats work best in rooms where the temperature is relatively stable. A thermostat turns the heater on and off or regulates the electricity as needed based on the enclosure temperature. A non-proportional thermostat works on a on/off mode, and a proportional thermostat (e.g. Helix) constantly adjusts the amount of heat to keep it at the target level. Many people like thermostats better because they are automatic and will adjust the enclosure temperature if the room temperature goes up and down. For example, the Zilla temperature controller Note: Mercury vapor bulbs (MVB's) cannot be used with dimmers or rheostats, but you can use a timer (automatic on/off) with them. Timers I have many of my enclosure lights and heaters plugged into power center timers Caution! Do check daily that the timers, lights, and heaters are working properly. Timers and bulbs may fail unexpectedly. You don't want your tortoises, especially babies, to be too cold for long. Cold and damp can be detrimental to Star tortoises! Tortoises kept outdoors overnight during cold weather are most at risk. Electricity usage You can measure the energy consumption of your reptile bulbs with an electricity usage monitor. Kill A Watt Out of curiosity, I tested my UV and heat bulbs. My 100W UV/heat mercury vapor combo bulbs actually use 114-120 watts! In comparison, a 20W linear (long) UV fluorescent bulb and a 75W reptile heat bulb use 87 watts combined. My 60W ceramic heat bulbs use about 59 watts, and 75W reptile basking bulbs use about 72 watts. You may be quite surprised by the electricity consumption of some small appliances. For example, my little coffee pot uses 977 watts! Thermometers & hygrometers I use a variety of thermometers and hygrometers (humidity gauges), including analogs, digitals with no remote sensors, digitals with probes, infrared temperature guns, and handheld relative humidity/temp meters. Dial thermometers with plain, light colored backgrounds are much easier to read than ones with colored picture backgrounds, especially from far away. Digital thermometers tend to be more accurate and are not much more expensive. With these, often just the probe is placed inside the tub. Secure thermometer and hygrometer probe cords to the enclosure wall so that the tortoise can't get tangled in them. I use wide shipping tape for that. Readings between different types of units may vary, so compare them. Always check the temperatures at both ends of the enclosure to ensure an adequate temperature gradient. Measure the temperature at the substrate level where the tortoise lives. Ideally, use humidity gauges at both ends of the enclosure as well. Or move the devices around to check the temperatures and humidity at various locations. A hand-held temperature gun (temp gun), a digital infrared thermometer, is another useful gadget to have. It allows you to spot check any surface temperature in an instant. Popular low-priced products include Pro Exotics temp guns You can also buy a small hand-held device that quickly measures both the temperature and relative humidity. Heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) professionals use them to assess indoor air quality. Probe style digital meters are available from several companies, including Amprobe
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bulbs. For Star tortoises, the 10.0 bulb is better than 5.0.
